Buccan

Chef Clay Conley's Palm Beach flagship, opened late January 2011 with partners Sam Slattery and Piper Quinn. Conley — formerly executive chef at Azul in the Mandarin Oriental Miami and culinary director for Todd English's 18-restaurant empire — brought a small-plates, wood-fired, come-as-you-are ethos to an island that had been mostly white-tablecloth. A five-time James Beard "Best Chef South" nominee, Conley is widely credited with breaking Palm Beach dining open; local press routinely call Buccan the toughest reservation on the island in season. The dining room is compact and loud in the good way, with an open kitchen along the back wall.

What to order

The sweet corn agnolotti and short rib empanadas are the signatures locals order without looking at the menu. Book a month out for high season (Dec–Apr) or walk into the Sandwich Shop next door at lunch for the same kitchen without the wait.

Hours

Dinner Sun–Thu 5p–9:30p · Fri–Sat 5p–10p · Buccan Sandwich Shop next door daily 11a–3:30p (takeout)